2022
09.30
[ English ]

As we dicussed in the last article, Backgammon is a game of ability and pure luck. The goal is to move your pieces carefully around the board to your home board and at the same time your opposition shifts their checkers toward their inner board in the opposite direction. With opposing player chips heading in opposing directions there is bound to be conflict and the need for specific tactics at specific times. Here are the 2 final Backgammon tactics to finish off your game.

The Priming Game Strategy

If the purpose of the blocking strategy is to slow down the opponent to shift his chips, the Priming Game strategy is to completely block any movement of the opposing player by assembling a prime – ideally 6 points in a row. The competitor’s chips will either get bumped, or end up in a damaged position if he/she at all attempts to escape the wall. The ambush of the prime can be setup anywhere between point 2 and point eleven in your board. After you have successfully assembled the prime to prevent the activity of the competitor, your competitor doesn’t even get a chance to roll the dice, and you move your chips and roll the dice again. You’ll be a winner for sure.

The Back Game Tactic

The objectives of the Back Game strategy and the Blocking Game technique are similar – to hurt your opponent’s positions with hope to better your odds of winning, however the Back Game strategy utilizes different techniques to do that. The Back Game tactic is commonly utilized when you are far behind your competitor. To play Backgammon with this technique, you have to hold 2 or more points in table, and to hit a blot (a single checker) late in the game. This technique is more complex than others to play in Backgammon because it requires careful movement of your checkers and how the checkers are relocated is partly the outcome of the dice toss.

2022
09.30
[ English ]

In extraordinarily general terms, there are three chief tactics used. You need to be agile enough to hop between techniques almost instantly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is composed of assembling a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at a minimum as thick as you might manage, to lock in your competitor’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most suitable procedure at the start of the match. You can create the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your two-point and then move it into your home board as the match advances.

The Blitz

This consists of closing your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early 2 and shifts one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a five-five, you are able to play 6/1 six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opponent is then in serious calamity taking into account that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have closed half your home board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have 2 or more checkers in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a position occupied by at a minimum two of your pieces.) It must be employed when you are extremely behind as this action much improves your chances. The better areas for anchor spots are towards your opponent’s lower points and either on adjacent points or with a single point separating them. Timing is important for an effectual backgame: besides, there is no point having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to break apart this right away, while your challenger is getting their pieces home, considering that you do not have any other spare pieces to shift! In this situation, it’s better to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position up till your opponent provides you a chance to hit, so it can be a wonderful idea to try and get your challenger to get them in this situation!