2018
08.28

In extraordinarily simple terms, there are 3 general game plans employed. You need to be able to hop between tactics quickly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is comprised of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you are able to achieve, to block in your opponent’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most adequate tactic at the start of the match. You can create the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the match progresses.

The Blitz

This is composed of locking your home board as fast as as you can while keeping your challenger on the bar. e.g., if your challenger tosses an early 2 and shifts one piece from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you will be able to play six/one six/one eight/three eight/three. Your challenger is then in big-time dire straits since they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your home board!

The Backgame

This course of action is where you have 2 or higher anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a position filled by at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It would be used when you are decidedly behind as this action much improves your circumstances. The better areas for anchor spots are close to your competitor’s smaller points and either on abutting points or with one point in between. Timing is essential for an effective backgame: besides, there is no reason having 2 nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to dismantle this right away, while your challenger is moving their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have other spare pieces to move! In this situation, it’s better to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position up until your opponent provides you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a great idea to try and get your challenger to hit them in this situation!

2018
08.25

In extraordinarily simple terms, there are three basic techniques employed. You must be able to switch game plans instantly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This involves creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you might achieve, to block in your opponent’s checkers that are located on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most adequate strategy at the start of the game. You can build the wall anywhere inbetween your eleven-point and your two-point and then move it into your home board as the match continues.

The Blitz

This is comprised of closing your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your competitor rolls an early 2 and shifts one checker from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then toss a five-five, you are able to play 6/1 six/one 8/3 8/3. Your opposer is now in serious calamity because they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!

The Backgame

This course of action is where you have two or higher anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a position filled by at least 2 of your checkers.) It would be used when you are extremely behind as this action greatly improves your circumstances. The best areas for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s smaller points and also on adjacent points or with a single point in between. Timing is crucial for a competent backgame: at the end of the day, there’s no point having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then required to break up this straight away, while your challenger is getting their checkers home, seeing that you do not have any other spare pieces to shift! In this situation, it’s better to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position until your challenger gives you an opportunity to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to attempt and get your opponent to hit them in this situation!

2018
08.13
[ English ]

In very general terms, there are 3 fundamental strategies used. You need to be agile enough to switch techniques quickly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is composed of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you can achieve, to block in the competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most adequate procedure at the begining of the game. You can build the wall anyplace within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the match progresses.

The Blitz

This is comprised of closing your home board as fast as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early 2 and moves one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you are able to play six/one six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opposer is now in serious difficulty since they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have two or more anchors in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point occupied by at a minimum 2 of your checkers.) It should be used when you are extremely behind as this plan greatly improves your opportunities. The better locations for anchor spots are towards your opponent’s smaller points and also on adjoining points or with one point in between. Timing is crucial for an effectual backgame: after all, there’s no point having two nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break up this straight away, while your opponent is moving their checkers home, because you don’t have any other additional checkers to shift! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position up till your challenger provides you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a good idea to attempt and get your opposer to get them in this case!